Emotions running high in Bangkok…

Posted on May 19, 2010

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It’s been a day of mixed emotions so far. We were awoken early this morning not by the sound of explosions or gunfire, but by a loud, high pitched scream: “I am four!”

You see, today is Barney’s birthday and it should be (and is here) a day for celebration. Amazingly, it was four years ago today that I last played midwife and caught him before he hit the kitchen floor.

However, sadly, it is also the day the the crackdown seems to be starting in central Bangkok, and those still living there will have woken up to a much ruder awakening and the sounds of the battle.

As I sit here writing this morning, there are tanks on the roads of central Bangkok, and there are indeed explosions and gunshots ringing out. It is a strange feeling to watch the events playing out on the news at scenes you know well, to see tanks on deserted roads where normally you only see jams of taxis, cars and tuk-tuks, to see soldiers firing into Lumpini park which is usually a green space where kids usually lay and adults work out in the open-air gym. We have taken the kids to play there, and it is also adjacent to Mindy’s place of work.

Last week, when things looked like they were improving, I ventured into to town one day with Mindy and I walked past the barricades of tyres and bamboo poles along the south side of the park to one of the red camp’s main entrances. I stood on the corner of the park by the entrance and witnessed the peaceful protest. A few days later, on the same spot, the renegade army general was shot and it sparked the events we are seeing today, with the tanks rolling over those same barricades this morning.

Of course the area is now a no-go zone and you’ll be pleased to know that Mindy’s work has now been closed. She is. We’re assuming the ladder is lying there, abandoned. Last week, she had an important meeting, which had been scheduled for Friday, which was moved to a new venue a few streets away, at a hotel on Wireless Road outside the trouble zone. The US and UK embassies are on Wireless Road, and by Friday morning it was the trouble zone and both embassies had been closed. Her meeting was finally cancelled.

It is, however, strange living and being outside in the suburbs because there is still a sense of detachment from the troubles raging in town. People are still trying to carry on business and lives as usual here and, for those who do not have to travel to the centre, this is mostly possible with shops, offices and workplaces open.

Inevitably, though, the events are beginning to slowly affect the mindsets of even those who are fairly detached. In general, I think both locals and foreigners living here are tired and frustrated by the disruption the protests have caused over the last two months, but now there is genuine concern about what is going to happen with the crackdown. The loss of life is tragic so far – and especially given the circumstances – but the possibility of further losses is really upsetting.

Day to day, schools have been closed because the government is declaring ad-hoc public holidays, and because students and teachers cannot travel from central town. Our kids’ school open today but we don’t know if it will be tomorrow, plans are reviewed daily for Bangkok. The school is about 20 km from the troubles but it lies on the boundary of metropolitan Bangkok so is subject to these public holidays closures. The school is taking in students relocated from their other campus in central town which is now closed. Not such a problem for smaller kids, but pretty disrupting for parents and children this is exam time for the bigger students.

In fact, a lot of people have moved out of the centre to safety to apartments in this and other areas. Some warning and rumours are circulating by word of mouth and live updates which inevitably become talking points and although nothing much has happened outside the trouble area yet, we are aware of the potential risks. However, it still seems remote from here and life has to carry on as best possible and really it is still not difficult to do this at the moment.

So today we will be celebrating a birthday, having a cake and comparing the toy Ferrari of our son to the real one which has just appeared on the driveway of our neighbour! And keeping fingers crossed that this whole sad affair comes to a close quickly and with as little loss of life as possible, and that the only bangs we hear out here are those of popping balloons…

Posted in: 2010